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 India
in splendid isolation
J. Balodis, The weekend Australian, 14-15/03/98
LONGING for a peaceful break during a holiday in India? A chance to
wander without another traveller in sight? Too much to hope for, say
experienced visitors to the subcontinent.
But if you're planning to visit the glittering Rajasthan triangle
of Jaipur, Jodphur and Udaipur, here's a side trip to a virtually
undiscovered living museum. Less than four hours west of Jaipur is
the region of Shekhawati, a scattered group of desert towns built
around forts established on the old silk route. The beautiful buildings,
preserved in the dry desert air, are covered by frescoes dating from
the 17th century to the 1920s.
Ramesh Jangid has decided to devote his life to the recognition and
preservation of this unique area of Rajasthan. His little guesthouse
in the town of Nawalgarh and his "eco-farm", Apani Dhani, provide
a base for exploration of the area. Apani Dhani offers accommodation
for up to 10, in charming but basic rooms - with attached shower and
odourless, composting "footprint" toilet - built around a central
courtyard garden with thatched-roof seating pavilion. Everything is
simple, scrupulously clean and very peaceful. Apani Dhani is the outcome
of Ramesh's long-held dream of an ecologically sound tourist facility
that will bring visitors close to the Indian way of life while showing
them the region's rich heritage.
My room is a round building made of mud and straw with a polished
mud floor: no window except a small opening and a stout wooden door.
During hot days, it's cool; on colder nights, cosy. Even the little
shower room-cum-toilet remains mild at night-but so does the water.
However, hot water is available in a bucket (Apani Dhani is not for
the fivestar hotel junkie)
The farm provides vegetables, the animals milk, and the methane gas
for cooking is produced from animal manure. Water is heated by solar
energy. Excellent vegetarian meals, prepared by the family, are served
in the separate dining room. The company during my stay proves to
be good: French, mostly, but also Belgian and Dutch, all experienced,
knowledgeable, independent travellers.
The painted towns
of Shekhawati are fascinating, their frescoes depicting everything
from the classic Hindu epics to the arrival and amazing lifestyle
of the Raj. They cover every square metre of the havelis (mansions
of the Mawari merchants), the temples, cenotaphs, small town buildings
and even the rims of ancient wells.
Ramesh and his son, Rajesh, are experts on Shekhawati history and
culture. They have a jeep and a larger vehicle, which can seat eight
or nine, and will arrange excursions to nearby towns as well as trekking
in the Arawalli range, bicycle tours and camel rides.
Bouquets:
Reasonable degree of comfort with loads of charm. Recommended reading
can be borrowed during your stay.
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